![]() I'm canyon riding, not commuting on the freeway with this bike. I'm not riding around at redline or riding the bike much over 75-80 mph. HP or TQ that comes on at 7k is useless to me just like adding top speed. So that means at least 7-10 lbs in an rpm range I can use, like 3-5k. ![]() Meanwhile, I really have no complaints how my bike is running. I'm not going to just start swapping out parts. The problem I have is that I don't know of a performance BMW shop in Los Angeles. If the bike is too rich, throttle response can be slower due to loadup, the bike will gallop at slow speeds, and or sputter or stammer when cold or at low rpms. I'm not getting or at least feeling any flat spots, the bike is not running hot, no pinging, exhaust popping, or really any signs the bike is too lean. I have no doubt the bike is on the lean side, they leave the factory lean as we all know, but it's a question of how lean or too lean. I thought that was interesting when people install expensive piggy back ECU brand "X" and then say they get better MPG along with all the other benefits. Interestingly, more expensive gadgets that piggy back on the ecu and alter duty cycle of the injectors to change fueling can give owners a false sense of fuel economy, as the averages reported by the bike to the owner become completely incorrect being based off what the ECU is trying to do rather than what is actually happening. But in the event that freeing up the exhaust adds issues, then the air temp trick might be a cheap bandaid as long as the ECU isn't continually optimising for A/F ratios in the exhaust, in which case after some time things will be back where they started again. I don't feel there any problem in parking lots in first gear, or any particular surge anywhere else. I don't actually have any of the typical low rpm / low speed fuelling issues some have seem to say BMWs have. So I elected to order that instead, as I'm going to get the remus extractors and exhaust and as there is not yet a PowerCommander V for the NineT so this solution is probably the only one out there right now. The thermistor ($10) does the job returning a modified resistance value thus telling the ECU the air is cooler than it is, and the resistor (5cents) caps environmental extremes.Ī competitor product does the same thing at about half the price, Solid Soutions - Bike Parts It is - or was when it was looked at - a badly soldered hobby pcb, with a resistor and thermistor. I did a bit of digging on the booster plug and found someone with electronics expertise who disassembled it. I do however agree that any modification that would really impact on economy would have to be seriously questioned before implementation. I accept that fuel economy of a vehicle is something to be considered, but that should be before a purchase is made. I'm considering getting my bike remapped some time in the next year, and a possible modest dip in economy wouldn't be a issue for me, especially if the bike is quicker and more driveable. I'm not that light on the throttle either! A pleasant surprise to me as before I bought the bike some owners seemed to be getting consumption in the low 40s. My on-board trip computer is showing average consumption using premium unleaded (98RON) over the first 1000 miles I've had the bike. Perhaps roadrunner was implying that if fuel consumption is a big issue for NineTgreg perhaps he shouldn't have stretched to buy a 9T if a slight dip in fuel consumption would cause big concern. However NineTgreg had to ask the question to find this out. If fuel consumption was going to plummet I could see the concern. I'll do it when I take it apart for the 24k mile service =) I'm hoping for B-mode smoothness with A-mode power and acceleration.I have to agree with maddmike here, it was a reasonable question, though my opinion is that if you can afford to buy a R9T a potential small dip in fuel economy versus better driveability shouldn't be a major concern. ![]() My wife gave me a green light on an exhaust and flash in the next month or two. So it's 'A' mode full time now at the cost of tensed up/soreness on/after long rides of my right wrist/shoulder. When I twisted the throttle I leaned forward, the engine felt like it bogged down and then popped in at a little more throttle application but it was really just the way standard tries to smooth the map on initial turn. It's so ingrained in muscle memory that I was in traffic the other day and had left it in standard mode. I moved to 'A' mode full time about a year ago, even in heavy traffic and I've smoothed out the jerky response. ![]() Then I decided I just needed to get used to standard mode and eventually my right wrist smoothed it out. When I first got the FJ, I'd be in 'B' mode in the really tight mountain sections because the throttle was smoother.
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